Roggenvollkornbrot

Jeremy's picture
Jeremy

Been busy of late, but I finally and successfully made a whole grain rye bread, even milled the grain at home and well it's on my site www.stirthepots.com check it out!

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Graham's picture
Graham 2008 February 1

Looks good Jeremy, like the 'Forest Bread' I used to make (which uses sprouted rye). I guess I may as well be the one to ask you if you think the dried yeast was an essential part of the process, or could it be omitted/substituted?

Jeremy's picture
Jeremy 2008 February 1

Dunno, but I tend to think yes, as fermented flour is yeast? German bread I notice, at least some types use a high ferment or levain in there dough, there are plenty of different types of dough, styles, flours so I am just a novice at this sort of bread! I do love it though, I think it is my having been born and living in Germany that gives me a sort of nostalgic taste for rye or a more rustic style of bread. Of course that being said, I do love a Miche, a baguette and of course Italian breads are damned good too!Babbling again, must be the yeast infection?Jeremy

Graham's picture
Graham 2008 February 1

No, I think I am more of a babbler than you! Perhaps I did not read the recipe correctly, and I have no idea what the desired characteristics (if any) are for this bread, probably because as I have never lived in Germany. The only reference I have to authentic German bread recipes is the first edition of 'Baking. The Art and Science'. I have not read it for a while but I seem to remember that in that reference the (traditionally inspired) bakers were not afraid to use commercial yeast when they felt that it was appropriate for the style of bread. So I guess my question was whether or not Roggenvollkornbrot requires a commercially manufactured yeast to achieve the desired outcome...in terms of flavour/texture and the rest....or could a baker-made yeast achieve a similar result. Personally I like the moisture gradation that you have achieved from crust to centre. To me that makes a good eating dense loaf.

Danubian's picture
Danubian 2008 February 2

G'day Jeremy,Long time since we chatted, hope you've been well.I agree with you, it's a nice style of bread when made authentically. While I was in Germany last year I noticed plenty of industrial food, and bread was amply represented. In fact, I even had a nasty experience and was hospitalised. I'm extremely allergic to lupin and I ate some bread which contained lupin. It appears in very few foods here in Australia but it seems to be used as a bulking ingredient, or as a fibre source. Now I'm raving! It looks pretty good, althoough, hard to tell from the photograph, but was it a little goowy - it shows some characteristics of high moisture - or was the crumb stable? This is one of the major challenges in making this type of bread. Essentially, the usual high enzyme activity of rye flours and meals - especially form the Northern Hemisphere - makes it difficult to achieve a stable crumb (an 'elastic' rather than a  'plastic' crumb). The answer to the problem is to ferment part of the flour as a sourdough. The low pH (high acid intensity) and high TA (high acid volume) in conjunction with salt deactivates the excess diastase or amylase enzymes which are responsible for degrading a high percentage of starch into the soluble sugar maltose liberating the water that the starch held in its gelatinised state. Without sourdough, this degrading process of the starch into soluble maltose, goes on unchecked resulting in excess residual moisture or an 'unstable' crumb.[quote=Graham] So I guess my question was whether or not Roggenvollkornbrot requires a commercially manufactured yeast to achieve the desired outcome...in terms of flavour/texture and the rest....or could a baker-made yeast achieve a similar result. Personally I like the moisture gradation that you have achieved from crust to centre. To me that makes a good eating dense loaf. [/quote]Graham, IMHO commercial yeast is not necessary to make quality Roggenvollkornbrot, although, it means slight formula changes if a mild sour aroma and flavour is desired. The role of the yeast is to produce gas quickly but it also reduces the acid intensity and volume due to a relatively short final proof. If made without yeast, using a mature sourdough the resultant bread is very sour to taste. The excessive sourness can be moderated by incorperating the sourdough into the bread dough at a relatively immature stage, this produces the gas before too much acid is produced. It's a balancing act between pleasant acidic aroma and flavour and  an excess sourness.

Graham's picture
Graham 2008 February 2

[quote=Danubian]Graham, IMHO commercial yeast is not necessary to make quality Roggenvollkornbrot, although, it means slight formula changes if a mild sour aroma and flavour is desired. The role of the yeast is to produce gas quickly but it also reduces the acid intensity and volume due to a relatively short final proof. If made without yeast, using a mature sourdough the resultant bread is very sour to taste. The excessive sourness can be moderated by incorperating the sourdough into the bread dough at a relatively immature stage, this produces the gas before too much acid is produced. It's a balancing act between pleasant acidic aroma and flavour and  an excess sourness. [/quote]Thank you Danubian. Do you have any information on the historical development of Roggenvollkornbrot? Did this bread variety exist before the advent of commercially isolated yeast strains? When did bakers first get excited about lactic (warm) vs acetic (fruity) ferments and become experts (artisans?) at controlling/combining these different types of ferments and achieving consistently repeatable results?Thanks. Graham

Danubian's picture
Danubian 2008 February 3

[quote=Graham]Thank you Danubian. Do you have any information on
the historical development of Roggenvollkornbrot? Did this bread
variety exist before the advent of commercially isolated yeast strains?
When did bakers first get excited about lactic (warm) vs acetic
(fruity) ferments and become experts (artisans?) at controlling/combining these different types of ferments and achieving consistently repeatable results?[/quote]

Not at my finger tips, but I can dig it up at the office and post it here,
unless some of the the Northern European contirbutors beat me too it. Bianchifan, may have some information to hand.

bianchifan's picture
bianchifan 2008 February 2

Nice work Jerry! Well done!Although its looking quite like a "Reformhaus" Health Bread :-))))3 stage Detmold, right? Than you mustn't add extra yeast, you may add some dark coloured malt instead but not really neccessary. But improves building of dark coloured crumb and a sweety taste if you bake much longer time at lower temps.[quote=Danubian]Graham, IMHO commercial yeast is not necessary to make quality Roggenvollkornbrot, although, it means slight formula changes if a mild sour aroma and flavour is desired. [/quote] :)[quote=Danubian]If made without yeast, using a mature sourdough the resultant bread is very sour to taste. [/quote]not even mandatory, it depends on the amount, Pumpernickel for example isn't sour at all, it's sweet.

Jeremy's picture
Jeremy 2008 February 3

[quote]Did you read Martin's thread? Maybe you should find a fitness centre for some therapy. Hugs.
[/quote] Did read that, just as the twinges of my back were creeping in, barely could get out of bed, and haven't slept to good either! Thanks TP, Graham![quote=bianchifan]Nice work Jerry! Well done!Although its looking quite like a "Reformhaus" Health Bread :-))))3 stage Detmold, right? Than
you mustn't add extra yeast, you may add some dark coloured malt
instead but not really neccessary. But improves building of dark
coloured crumb and a sweety taste if you bake much longer time at lower
temps.[/quote]Markus, the formula is from Brotrezepte aus lanlichen Backstüben (Landbuch Verlag HannoverI haven't had success with 3 stage detmold as of yet, though I have a formula from school that is 100% ryeRHEINISCHES SCHWARZBROT     (100% Rye)Step 1: Refresher SpongeFermentation time: 7 hoursDesired dough temperature (DDT): 24°C / 75°F     100    g    Sourdough starter200    g    Coarse rye flour240    g    Water540    g    Refresher SpongeStep 2: Base Levain     Fermentation time: 10 hoursDDT: 25°C (77°F)        540    g    Refresher Sponge1600    g    Coarse rye flour960    g    Water3100    g    Base LevainRye Berry Soaker     Soaking time: Overnight        4000    g    Whole rye berries, broken4000    g    Water (@ 85° F)8000    g    Rye berry soakerStep 3: Full Levain     Fermentation time: 3 hoursDDT: 26°C (79°F)    3100    g    Base Levain5200    g    Coarse rye flour4400    g    Water12700    g    Full LevainStep 4: Final Dough    DDT: 28°C (82°F) 12600    g*    Full Levain8000    g    Rye berry soaker7000    g    Coarse rye flour1600 to 1900    g    Water300    g    Salt29500    g    Final Dough* Save 100 g of full levain for next baking, Refresher Sponge stageI tried this and was rather unsuccessful at my first effort, and my second attempt was thwarted by too much work and my really bad loss of memory regarding Bakers Percent which I regained with the help of famed author Maggie Glezer tutoring me!Cheers,Thanks guy's going to the chiropractor and my accupuncturist, ouch!

cozzyozzy's picture
cozzyozzy 2013 January 18

sorry to give you a verrrry late comment to your question.

I grew up next to a bakery in Germany and spend many happy hours "helping" to knead dough for my very own small breads. The bakers there always used "fresh" yeast in baking breads and some cakes.

Jeremy's picture
Jeremy 2008 February 2

Hey all,actually in a bit of pain right now! Old army back thing! Years of schlepping cases of china for the generals mess all over Germany!The dough wasn't gooey really, the crumb was stable! When sliced it pops out with grain and seeds, as well I milled the  whole grain and passed  it through a sieve as it's difficult to get light or medium rye here in NYC, can you imagine?Theresa ummm I don't recall the exact percentage of rye, but it's definitely high, there is some whole wheat and grain as well as seeds!It is a long lasting bread, though I fear mold as it is humid here, global warming! Could get high or crazy with the ergot!Jeremy

Danubian's picture
Danubian 2008 February 2

Theresa, looks like 86% total rye whether in fine ground flour or right up to grain and all types of rye in between.The non rye seeds 14%Jeremy, well its a success. Great work. We eat a similar type of bread through the course of the year several times, I like it sliced thin, 3mm maximum. What's your preference?

Graham's picture
Graham 2008 February 2

Jeremy I can see how much work you went to, over and above the usual. Feeling a bit bad about critiquing so early in the post. And you are in pain you poor thing! I am stepping down off my sourdough high horse; if it makes you feel like you are a kid back in Germany, skipping with your friends etc, then the Roggenvollkornbrot is absolutely as it should be.

TeckPoh's picture
TeckPoh 2008 February 2

[quote=Jeremy]Hey all,actually in a bit of pain right now! Old army back thing! ....Jeremy[/quote]Did you read Martin's thread? Maybe you should find a fitness centre for some therapy. Hugs.

JohnD's picture
JohnD 2008 February 3

Graham,you asked about the historical context of these grain breads. They are not exclusively European at all,and have been made historically everywhere,as this is a bottom line technology in the ancient grain -based cultures. Especially where grinding was not passible.They have survived in Eastern Europe and Germany,and are elevated to excellence by the application of well developed technique. Breads such as this were much more common in Europe before the wide spread availability of wheat in the 13-14th C, and were bottom line "peasant" fare. They were also commonly made with field peas/beans, nuts and vegetables. There were no metal tins available until the late 19th century,so previously such breads were very flat.This also enabled more thorough baking so the bread wouldnt mold easily. "Essene" bread is an example from the middle-east,where the grains were sprouted,then wet-ground, and there were numerous variations on this theme. Jeremy,maybe the ergot is what you need for the pain...it should take your mind off it ! lol.

Jeremy's picture
Jeremy 2008 February 4
Kidding aside, the last bit of the bread did develop some mold, didn't try it I already have had my heady day's as a experimenting youth!
It's interesting you mention the history of shaping of loaves as well as techniques. It's a subject that interests me since I look at history and bread as intertwined with symbols, something I touch upon in my interviews with bakers, for instance most American bakers look at white loaf bread as our national symbol for bread! Eeeegad, I wonder how Aussies look at bread, what is your national symbol, your also an immigrant society.
It's also interesting to see how much breads in shape and technique are lost over the years and how we are trying to find them now!

Jeremy
Croc 2008 February 10

well Jeremy many aussies don't have much respect for bread (yet) but i noticed those things changing and things looking better every day.

what really puzzles me is that USA and Australia should have the best breads in the world due to such massive mixture of immigrants from all over the world and you would think that we would be last to tolerate poor quality bread.

i live in melbourne since 1996, left poland in days when breads and bakeries were pure magic, there was not one bad bakery back then that i knew about which i been told by firends and family changed and now good bread is harder to find due to huge competition and large plant bakeries all over the place pumping out really crappy bread but very cheap.

but in melbourne in this almost 12 years i find things going the other way, first few years i could not understand how people can eat such crappy breads in australia and knew only one bakery in SE part of melbourne that had quality breads (old school german baker) and year after year there was more and more "ok" bakeries.

it still isn't perfect but i can jump in my car and go to 3 different bakeries right around the corrner and come home with product i know will taste great and it wont be pumped up with chemicals.

there is still lots of bad bread out there but it isn't majority as it used to be so i'm very happy about that.

 

as for our national symbol, its same old skippy :P

Jeremy's picture
Jeremy 2008 February 11
Don't mind me but shouldn't  that skippy cover himself up a bit? Sorry were very puritanical here, bloody pilgrims who landed on the Mayflower!

Cheers!
Jeremy
Croc 2008 February 11

down under we are realists and skippys come with genitals so i'm not going to blur it out for sake of anyone wanting to spend their life living in crippling illusion beliving that skippys just look cute and have no balls. :D


 

Jeremy's picture
Jeremy 2008 February 11
It was truly in jest Croc! I think if I was that skippy, well never mind, this is a bread thread anyway!

Cheers

Jeremy
Croc 2008 February 11

[quote=Jeremy]It was truly in jest Croc! I think if I was that skippy, well never mind, this is a bread thread anyway!

Cheers

Jeremy
[/quote]

 

and not just any bread but a really good looking one.

every time i visit this thread i get hungry for it

JohnD's picture
JohnD 2008 February 11

jeremy,Ive met Europeans who can discern the country of origin of a loaf from the style, right down to the county level...because of a young culture, it doesnt even exist  in Oz(but there were examples)..... and Bakers were everywhere traditionally distinguished by the idiosyncracies of their loaves. Obliterated by the bread factories. But the distinguishing symbol of British bread traditionally,was the brilliant "cottage" loaf,which ive found to be the very most difficult loaf to perfect consistently. Poilane documented a French regional loaf like it, but the Cottage loaf was "Bread " to the British until the factory tin, and was a hallowed Art among good bakers.French bread is clearly different...its symbol might be the artistic and emotional slash in distinction to the traditional British carefully stacked and balanced construction.lol. I agree Jeremy, its fascinating, and a national expression of the Art in Artisan. When The English queen visited OZ in the 1950`s,the bakers made a loaf in the shape of OZ,as a sandwich,with parsley garnish as Tas! Gotta love it!

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